October 7, 2005

Retail Roundup

Enter a festive ambiance where gourmet Mexican dishes are served fresh amidst the colorful décor of a recreated Mexican plaza. Their servers know how to please, so don’t be afraid to let them tantalize you with their great menu of specialties. With tasty authentic dishes and specialty margaritas, this is the place if you like Mexican food.

Restaurant Review Mexicali Grill

Making my way through the double doors into the foyer, I found myself entering what is best described as a modern day Hacienda, and I could hear the serenading of traditional Spanish music in the background. 

Everything has a new and polished look to it and it felt instantly welcoming. To the left I saw a full-service bar, and to the right, the dining room. Both sported cheerful mango-colored faux-painted walls, which were adorned with paper mache art pieces, contemporary Latino paintings and sculptures, beautiful terra cotta and colorful handcrafted tiles, and a festive assortment of pottery and plateware in appropriately dimmed evening lighting.

The entire staff at Mexicali Grill worked together as a team and we received superior service. Staff members donned clean and well-pressed “black on black” uniforms that fit well in the restaurant’s atmosphere and made it easy to ascertain who was an employee. 

Everyone from the on-duty manager to the busers always presented with smiles. We noticed the on-duty manager walked the dining room, bar and kitchen area making friendly visits to various tables to ascertain patron satisfaction. 

Freshness is the kitchen’s credo, and we were easily won over by the honest simplicity of the home-style cooking. We started, of course, with light and crispy chips and salsa brought warm to the table. 

Mexicali’s zippy salsa is a striking example of this principle without the three- alarm heat that can scare many.  Of course, nothing tastes better with Mexican food than a margarita, and Mexicali has you covered here as well. With their extensive margarita menu, we opted to sample one of the fruit varieties—mango. 

Arriving within minutes, we sipped on our frozen concoction, perused the menu and continued to soak in the surroundings.  Though the chips and salsa were doing their trick, Guacamole is a “must do” appetizer for me during any Mexican restaurant visit. I found Mexicali’s version to be marvelous.

For entrees we decided on a combo plate and mole rojo, which we shared. Both arrived within minutes.

Our chosen combo plate consisted of three options—a chicken enchilada, pork tamale and chile relleno. These items are the test of every Mexican restaurant.  When prepared correctly, they can be manna from heaven, and Mexicali’s versions passed with flying colors. 

I was happy to note a distinct lack of “heaviness” that one often associates with Mexican food. Nothing here is “drowned” in cheese, over sauced or remotely greasy. 

I was particularly taken by the chili relleno. The simple egg batter was light, adhering nicely to the thick flesh of the pepper and contained just the right amount of cheese and sauce. Side dishes included beans that were smooth and light and rice that was fluffy and flavorful. 

My dining partner could not resist the allure of trying something new and, at the suggestion of the server, ordered the mole rojo. This is the type of entrée that is far from the routine Mexican cuisine you typically find in this area, yet again Mexicali pulled it off with great success. 

Two chicken enchiladas covered with a rich mole sauce, served with rice and black beans, won us both over. The menu claims that the mole is made with more than 35 different ingredients and our palates appreciated each and every one. Portion sizes on our entrees were more than ample and we both earmarked over half of each entree for take home. 

It’s true—there is a “Mexican food war” raging in my head.  I have become increasingly frustrated by the overall sameness of Mexican restaurants and have grown weary of bland burritos, tasteless tacos and enchiladas that are the same old “same old.”

However, Mexicali Grill on Capital Expressway strikes a blow for originality that I admire. Its menu pays homage to the tradition of Mexican cookery, yet modifies it to match our health-conscious times.

Their extensive menu has entrees ranging from $8.50 to $16.95 and is not difficult to navigate, even for those gringos, like me, who have forgotten their high school Spanish.

Located on Capitol Expressway near 101 at the Market Place Plaza, I found more than ample free parking. My initial impression was that Mexicali Grill was going to be a typical chain eatery that would have “Americanized” Mexican fare. This impression could not have been further from the truth. 

Mexicali Grill
1610 E. Capitol Expressway
San Jose, Calif. 95121
(408) 531-0700
www.mexicaligrill.com