September 22, 2006

Tips for Healthy Skin

Getting to the root of acne

By Danielle Farran
Secret Oasis Day Spa
Special to the Times

What causes acne?

1. Heredity
While it may be true that nearly everyone suffers from some form of acne, the more severe manifestations of the disease are believed to be strongly influenced by heredity. Even though acne may skip certain family members or even pass an entire generation, the presence of the disease is believed to be genetically based.

2. Oil production (Sebum)
Surging hormones around ages 10 to 14 stimulate the oil glands on the face, chest, and back. These oil glands connect to hair follicles, which are like tiny canals for hair, and the oil empties into the skin through the follicle. This oil, called Sebum, gets mixed with dead skin cells from the hair follicles and forms a plug, causing bacteria.

3. Bacteria
Bacteria is the Propionibacterium, also know as P acne bacteria. This type of bacteria thrives in conditions where oxygen is not present, such as a blocked follicle canal. How bad the acne is depends on how big the plug is (called a conedome), how deep it’s in the skin, and how much inflammation it causes. If the plug is close to the surface and there is not much inflammation, you might just have a white head.

Black heads are non-inflammatory plugs. These black heads and white heads are usually found in the T-Zone area (forehead, nose, chin) and can occur anywhere else on the face, chest, or back. If the plug is formed deeper down and there’s a lot of inflammation in the area, then a cyst forms. It’s this type of cystic acne that can also cause scarring.

4. Hormones
Hormones are almost always to blame for acne as well. For example, most teenagers starting their sexual development have at least mild acne at some point during their adolescence. Oil secretion increases, causing black heads and white heads to develop. Acne during these years tends to be unpredictable because the hormone levels of teenagers fluctuate so much. Sometimes, acne might start in the 20’s or 30’s, even if the person had clear skin during their teenage years. Again, hormones are visually the culprits. If someone has recently stopped taking oral contraceptives, it can probably account for more severe breakouts as well.

Solutions

Non-prescriptive products recommended:

Benzoyl Peroxide
Benzoyl Peroxide is considered one of the most powerful antibacterial agents and is endorsed by the American Academy of Dermatology, because of its ability to rapidly destroy P Acne bacteria, as well as other organisms. Benzoyl Peroxide’s action takes place as it forces peroxide into the follicle where it releases a form of oxygen. It is effective because the P acne bacteria can only survive in an oxygen-free environment. Unlike oral or topical antibiotics, the bacteria will not develop a resistance to Benzoyl Peroxide, even after years of use.

Glycolic Acid
Studies indicate that glycolic acid appears to help in breaking down the glue-like substance in the blockage of the follicle. Other benefits include a reduction in the appearance of the size of the follicle. If the blockage in the follicle is reduced, the canal relaxes, making the opening look much more refined.

Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid is categorized as a comedolytic agent, and has the ability to remove the foundation of conedomes. Salicylic acid has an excellent safety record.

Retinoid “Vitamin A”
Retinoid is a naturally occurring and synthetic compound that has vitamin A. It plays a critical role in skin growth and repair.

Retinoid has been proven to be extremely effectively in treating acne by preventing the cells that line the follicular canal from sticking together and creating the impaction that blocks the follicle. Vitamin A also improves the appearance of acne scars.

Prescription Medication Topical Antibiotics
There are a number of antibiotics that come in gels, lotions, or creams. Some of the most common are clindamycin, crythromycin, tetracycline, and minocin. These are often prescribed for mild to moderate acne and are often used in conjunction with one of the above-mentioned method topical products.

Oral Contraceptives
Oral contraceptives can be very effective in treating acne, particularly for women in their late teens, 20’s and 30’s, because they stabilize hormone levels from month to month. The most common product is ortho tri-cyclin.

Secret Oasis Day Spa is located on 2690 S. White Rd. #40, in San Jose. For more information, please call (408) 238-3216.