July 14, 2006

An enchanting visit to Marrakesh, Morocco

The Djemaa El-Fna is called a city within a city

By Donna H. Eliason
Staff Writer

We entered the famous city within a city, called the Djemaa El-Fna, a huge open area in Morocco’s second largest city, Marrakesh.

A pleathora of merchandise packs a merchant's stall. Photos by Dona Eliason

This city center, which early travelers called “Morocco City,” is a 24-hour marketplace for entertainment, shopping and dining. Residents, comprised of mostly men, but also a few covered women, and tourists throng here via horse-drawn buggies, bicycles, taxis, tourist and local buses.

Wherever you look there are swarms of activity. We’re greeted by water vendors with colorful hats and costumes, reminiscent of days gone by. Now they earn money by posing for pictures.

Musicians and acrobats give a circus like atmosphere
A small crowd gathers around musicians singing, beating drums, and playing flutes. Another group dressed in white, serenades us with their arms around each other’s shoulders. Nearby, an audience watches acrobats tumbling and performing various contortions. Additional musicians, storytellers, clowns and street entertainers perform during the evenings. People taking pictures or enjoying the concerts are expected to donate coins into outstretched hats.

“Be aware of pickpockets,” our guide warned us several times. “They are very savvy here, especially where groups of people gather.”

Being forewarned, we left our valuables in the hotel.

We can help with your aches and pains
Several tables set up beneath multicolored umbrellas are piled with pharmaceutical products designed for numerous ailments. Some are bottled; others stacked in piles or lay out on the table. Exotic aromas fill the air. An herbal doctor helps clients decide which colorful but unusual appearing concoction is best suited for a specific need. Because of our limited French and Arabic, we’re unable to learn the answers to our questions about the what’s and how’s of these items.

Men play flutes while sitting under umbrellas, waiting to catch our eye before taking the basket off a coiled cobra. Within seconds the cobra gently sways to the music. Just as quickly his partner comes by for a coin. Nearby, several performing monkeys sit with neck chains.

Street vendors assume eye contact means you’re interested in their merchandise. Sometimes it takes saying “no” in English, French and Arabic several times before they move on.

Bargaining is not only expected but fun
The bargaining time comes in the souks (markets), where visitors can wander down row after row to view a vast variety of basic goods or souvenirs. Some areas feature specific types of merchandise, such as brass items or pottery.

Colorful items spill out onto the corridors from the tightly stacked stalls. Vendors sitting in the stall doorway, encouraged visitors to buy their wares.

“This is the best you’re going to get,” they said.

Peter (left) and Ed (right) Eliason get ready to bargain for some dried fruit in Marrakesh, Morocco. Photo by Dona Eliason

You can find handicrafts here from various Moroccan ethnic groups, such as the Berbers, the original Marrakesh settlers from the Atlas Mountains.

Both the vendor and buyer expect bargaining. Our guidebook said the actual purchase price will be about half the stated figure. My husband Ed, son Peter, and I found souvenir treasures for family and friends.

I need a new purse
Just before we left for Morocco, my black purse started to fall apart.

“I’d love a purse from Morocco,” I mentioned to my husband, Ed.

After finding the right purse, my husband started bargaining. The man wanted 800 dirhams (about $80.00 US) saying, “This price is a real steal.”

“No, no, that’s too much,” replied my husband.

“How much you pay?” the seller countered.

On and on they bargained, amid laughs, and pats on each other’s shoulder. Several times we started to leave, only to have the bargaining start anew. When the price was agreeable to both, they shook hands.

I am delighted with my new Morocco purse.

Some of the first people out at the Djemaa El-Fna in the mornings are the fruit and vegetable vendors. By the time we arrived the aromas of sizzling kebabs, and couscous were almost irrestible. Many people enjoy the rooftop terrace cafes overlooking the square activities. Stands for sweets and fresh squeezed orange juice abound.

Some stalls specialize in spices piled high in open containers. Some we can recognize by their familiar aroma, others have unknown but tantalizing smells. Stacks of dried fruit reflect the bountiful fruit crops in Morocco.

Famous Words from Winston Churchill
As we left the huge city square with wonderful memories, we agreed with the legendary Winston Churchill who reportedly said, “If you have only one day to spend in Morocco, spend it in Marrakesh.”